For rainy days in a hammock, long plane flights, onshore afternoons or when Instagram doesn’t work. Here is Chica Brava recommended 5 Great Books About Surfing!
1. Fearlessness (the story about Lisa Anderson)
When participating in our retreat at Chica Brava, you will learn from our Theory Professor, Lindsey, during her Surf Theory that Lisa Anderson plays a HUGE role in women’s surfing today. As a World Surfing Title holder, Lisa Anderson was one of the first women surfers who had you catch yourself saying, “She surfs like a boy.” At the time, surfing was a male-dominated sport and Lisa was able to help break that mold by showing the truth of, “Anything you can do, I can do better.”
Lisa Anderson, nicknamed Trouble, run away from home at the age of 16 with the determination to become the best surfer in the world. After having a baby while on tour, launching a women’s surf wear line with Roxy and winning 4 WORLD titles… she inspired an entire generation of girls to begin surfing. See why her story is our TOP choice through her unconventional, but inspiring path, to changing how we perceive women surfing today!
2. Soul Surfer
As you may or may not know, Bethany Hamilton is a surfer who lost her arm in a shark attack in 2003. Bethany’s inspirational story appeals to people of all ages, who will not only admire her strength, but will appreciate her message: adversity can be overcome with optimism. She proves that a positive attitude, often leads to success.
Our Chica Brava favorite quote is, “My love of surfing was more than my fear of sharks.” This is one quote that we use every week on our daily schedule to remind our guests, and even ourselves, that you can overcome anything you put your mind to.
After the book and movie debut, she continued to prove to the world she would continue her positive journey by getting married, having a baby and even finishing 3rd, a career-best position, in the World Surf League’s Fiji Women’s Pro. If following a surfer who surfed while 6 months pregnant and can proudly stand on the podium in a world tour contest with one arm doesn’t empower you… then what will? This is a TRUE Chica Brava right here!
3. Waterman
This book is about a legend, and a Chica Brava favorite, Duke Kahanamoku. As our Theory Professor, Lindsey, teaches you that Duke was not only the the ambassador of the aloha, but he also used his popularity of a being an olympic swimmer, to introduce the sport of “wave-riding,” an activity unknown beyond the Hawaiian Islands, to the world.
In Waterman, award-winning journalist David Davis examines the remarkable life of Duke Kahanamoku, in and out of the water. Even though he started out as a swimmer, he proudly stood on his large wooden surfboard and spread the love of surfing throughout the globe. And to this day, Duke is still the only surfer to ever appear on a US stamp.
See why Chica Brava, and the entire world, consider him such a legend.
4. Gidget
First of all, do not compare this to the TV show. This book is the real thing as the story was written by her father, Frederick Kühner, a Hollywood screenwriter. He noticed that his daughter Kathy (nickname Gidget) became obsessed with surfing at the age of fifteen. The surfer guys she hung out with at the time, called her Gidget—short for girl midget. At five foot nothing, she was the first girl to really be a part of the surfer guy crew.
Gidget was one of the first to not only hang out in Malibu, before Malibu became THE beach to hang out, but she also taught herself how to surf! Gidget fell in love with the sport, rather than doing it because it was a fad. As we all are right?
5. The Surfer’s Mind
Based on over three years of performance psychology research, personal consultation and in depth interviews with many of the world’s best surfers, The Surfer’s Mind is the complete, practical guide to tune your mind and illuminate your heart for best performance and deep enrichment in surfing and in life. With words of wisdom from from more than 70 of the world’s top surfers, including Kelly Slater, Andy Irons, Mick Fanning, Joel Parkinson, CJ Hobgood, Taj Burrow, Tom Carroll, Mark Occhilupo, Sunny Garcia, Layne Beachley, Lisa Anderson, Sofia Mulanovich, Keala Kennelly, Shane Dorian, Ross Clarke-Jones, Dave Rastovich, Simon Anderson and Clyde Aikau… How could you not want to read this book?
Camp Operations Manager
Annaleigh Jaildagian
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